Paint correction is careful machine polishing — buffing, done right — that levels the clear coat to remove swirls, holograms, water spots and light scratches — instead of filling them with a glaze that washes out in a month.
Hand wash, then iron and tar removal and a clay pass, so the polisher never grinds contamination into the paint.
Paint checked under inspection lights and a test section polished first, to find the least aggressive combination that removes the defects.
Panel by panel: compounding for deeper defects, then a finishing polish for clarity and gloss. As little clear coat removed as the defects allow.
Corrected paint gets protection: a sealant, or a ceramic coating to keep it looking this way for years.
If it doesn't catch a fingernail, scratch removal by polishing usually works. Deeper scratches that go through the clear coat can be reduced but not removed without paint. We tell you which is which before starting.
One to three days, depending on the paint's condition and how many stages it needs.
Every polish removes a little clear coat, which is why we test first and use the least aggressive method that works. Done right, a correction removes a tiny fraction of it.
Mostly washing: automatic car washes, dirty mitts and the wrong drying towel drag grit across the paint. Florida's sand and dust make it worse.
It is the best time to. A ceramic coating over freshly corrected paint locks in the result and makes the next wash far less likely to put swirls back.
Yes, it's the most common job we see. Swirl removal takes a multi-stage machine polish: the swirls are removed, not hidden under glaze, and a coating afterwards keeps the next wash from putting them back.


